Lefkas
Seduced by the scenic Lefkas ..
AMAZING panoramic views. This is what the brochure said. And there’s no question the accompanying photographs looked enticing.
But we all know that sometimes the holiday reality doesn’t always live up to the high expectations. Not so with our secluded hilltop villa on the Greek island of Lefkada.
From dawn to dusk the views were spectacular. Early-morning coffee on our bedroom balcony found us catching breathtaking sunrises over the neighbouring Ionian island of Meganissi and the Greek mainland. Fast forward a few hours and we gazed down from our fabulous pool on to a shimmering sea dotted with yachts and fishing boats bobbing their way in and out of the harbour at Syvota Bay.
And later, as the sun set over the hillside, the silhouettes of nearby islands assumed a mystical air behind the darkening sea as we sipped pre-dinner ouzos and searched for signs of dolphins in the water below.
Sadly, the dolphins eluded us the whole time of our idyllic one-week stay, but the scenery will be framed in our memories.
We had reached Villain Sivota in under an hour from Preveza airport on the mainland – linked to Lefkada by a causeway and swing bridge. Our representative supplied us with detailed instructions on how to get to the villa in the far south of the island.
Apprehensive
We were a little apprehensive as we made our way up a rough agricultural track from the harbour village of Syvota Bay – perhaps not quite the approach expected to a luxury villa. But any misgivings vanished as we pulled up at electronically-operated gates and looked down a sweeping, impressive paved driveway towards the sea – we knew immediately it would lead to somewhere special. And we were not disappointed.
Our Villa…
Outside we could take our pick of sunny or shady patios, a flower-covered gazebo retreat, or sun loungers by the pool. There was a courtyard with table for al fresco dining away from the sun and even a path winding down to the sea and a private bathing platform.
All this and views to die for – it was hard to pull ourselves away from the villa. But that would have meant missing out on the rest of Lefkada. The island owes its name to the steep white cliffs on its southernmost cape, Lefkata (lefko meaning white).
Legend has it that the Greek poet Sappho, after being jilted by her lover, threw herself into the sea from here. Now it’s a popular spot for hang gliding.
Lefkada, also known as Levkas, is the fourth largest of the Ionian islands after Zakynthos, Kefalonia and Corfu and is the only one which can be reached by road from the mainland. It is believed to have been connected to the mainland by an isthmus, but in the 7th century BC the Corinthians excavated the sandbanks to create a shipping lane.
Unspoiled
It is a mountainous island, still largely undeveloped and unspoiled by mass tourism, but nowhere is more than an hour away by car. The eastern coast slopes gently down to the sea, while on the west coast there are rugged cliffs, rocky shores and long windswept beaches.
The island’s capital, Lefkada town in the north, has a Venetian castle and a new marina with berths for 650 yachts. The town is built in a marsh and houses have wooden upper storeys to withstand earthquakes (a powerful undersea quake in August 2003 measuring 6.4 on the Richter scale destroyed a number of homes and sent tourists fleeing to the mainland).
Our villa near the southern tip of Lefkada was just a few minutes up from Syvota Bay, a small harbour village with several tavernas lining the waterfront.
A week gave us just enough time to try them all – and especially enjoy freshly-caught fish with a simple Greek salad and decent local wine. Sheltered Syvota is a popular base for organised yachting holidays around the Ionian islands and the sometimes sleepy village bursts into life when the boats sail in for a change of crews.
Twenty minutes up the coast we explored Lefkada’s bustling main resort of Nidri, with views across to nearby islands including Skorpios, famous home of the late tycoon Aristotle Onassis. A statue on the promenade honours the man who brought jobs and wealth to the area.
Popular
Boat trips leave Nidri regularly to the neighbouring islands including Meganissi, but it’s popular to hire a little motor boat – complete with canopy to provide shade from the sun – and spend the day seeking out your own little piece of heaven.
A few minutes in the opposite direction from Syvota is the harbour resort of Vassiliki, which really comes to life in July and August when it is recognised as one of the windsurfing capitals of Europe. The wide and sheltered bay is noted for its afternoon wind known as `Eric’.
Vassiliki harbour, lined with pavement cafes, restaurants and ice cream shops, is a popular stopping-off point for those holiday yachts which set off from Syvota. It is also just a one-hour ferry ride away from Kefalonia – a favourite destination for day trippers. Boats also leave to the island of Ithaca.
…..an extract from Author. John Casham
